Restoring Old Ochards Overview
1. Orchard Survey
a) History and horticultural background
Investigate the history of the orchard. How long has there been an orchard on this site and who owned or planted it in the past? Try asking other local people and looking at Parish Records or the current and older ordnance survey maps. What was the purpose of the orchard? Identify what the surrounding land is used for and look for other fruit trees and features that might have once been connected with the orchard.
This information may help you to establish how the orchard was originally planned, planted and managed and you will probably discover why it has become neglected.
b) Site Survey
Survey the whole of the orchard site not just the fruit trees. A neglected orchard may have become a particularly valuable wildlife habitat and there may be other features that you want to preserve or develop. Draw a plan or sketch of the orchard on which you can mark all its features including boundaries, different vegetation types, access points and individual fruit trees.
c) Tree Condition
Generally assess the condition of the fruit trees. In terms of fruit production alone old fruit trees and orchards may have passed their most productive time. However with care and time neglected trees can be restored to a fruitful and healthy condition. It is often older orchards that are the best habitats for wildlife and beautiful features of the local landscape.
d) Tree shape and profile.
Try to identify the original intended shape of the tree. Standard - 6-7ft (2m) of clear stem before the first primary branch. Half standard - 3-4ft (1m) of clear stem before the first primary branch. Bush - l-2ft (30-60cm) clear stem before the first primary branch.
e) Look for dead branches.
Provided the tree is still alive dead branches can be removed and even leaning and hollow trees need not be condemned.
f) Look for signs of disease.
Canker and scab on fruit will be common in neglected trees. Some fruit varieties have a degree of resistance and regular pruning and care of trees will help them fight disease.
g) Also look for vigorous vertical growing branches not originally intended as part of the trees open structure and often a result of neglect. Neglected trees will also have very congested canopies that limit light and airflow causing poor fruit size and damp conditions ideal for disease.
2. Planning
Once you have assessed the condition of the orchard you can begin to plan its restoration using the recommendations below. At this stage it's worth thinking about wildlife, grass management (orchards were often grazed by sheep, pigs or poultry), access, paths and seating particularly if the orchard is going to become a community orchard and used by the public in full or part. A number of organisations can provide advice on these and funding issues, their details can be found on the 'Useful Information' sheet.
3. Restorative Pruning
Decide whether the tree should be restored, left to nature or removed. It may only be necessary to remove trees if they are dangerous or to make way for planting new trees. Most trees can be restored and we would not recommend the removal of old trees simply to make way for new ones.
The main aims of restorative pruning are to prolong the tree's life, restore the intended structure and form of the tree and to improve the quality and quantity of fruit. Restorative pruning should be carried out in winter when a tree is leafless and dormant. At this time of year it is much easier to see the shape and condition of the tree. Stone fruits such as plums are an exception and should be pruned in July to August because they are very susceptible to silver leaf, the spores of which are spread in winter. Restoration is a gradual process and should be phased over several years to avoid shocking the tree and to enable the effect of pruning to be monitored.
a) Use the correct tools for the job.
The removal of a few larger branches with a pruning saw, bow saw or loppers is much more effective than removing a lot of small branches with secateurs. If you are considering removing very large or high branches always put safety first and consult a qualified tree surgeon. Always under cut large branches to prevent the bark tearing beyond the cut when the branch is nearly severed.
b) Start by removing the dead, damaged and diseased branches.
With the originally intended structure of the tree in mind, remove any vigorous vertical growing branches and very low drooping branches that may break or get in the way of activity below the tree. If you want to shorten branches cut them back to a moderately vigorous side shoot to maintain the balance. Remove or shorten branches growing across the centre of the tree to open up the canopy thus allowing in light and air. Also remove suckers from the trunk.
c) Thinning
Once the dead, damaged and unwanted large branches have been removed the remaining smaller branches of neglected trees are usually very congested and need to be thinned.
Looking from the ground select the branches you want to keep. These are the ones that will make good future fruiting branches. They should be growing outwards from the canopy, not too close together and not too tall. Other branches should be removed thus thinning out the canopy and giving space to the branches you wish to keep. At the same time remove crossing and rubbing branches that may cause wounds allowing the introduction of disease. Neglected trees usually have a profusion of old fruiting spurs that can also be thinned.
In general only thin out 20 -30% of the smaller branches and old fruiting spurs in any one year of restoration. Over a three year period the shape of the tree will be improved with an open, uncongested canopy and a higher yield and quality of fruit.
It is difficult to judge which branches to remove once you are up a ladder in the tree. Decide what branches to remove from the ground then climb up to cut them and if in doubt climb down and take another look. Even better work in pairs with one person on the ground directing where to cut.
Decide whether the tree should be restored, left to nature or removed. It may only be necessary to remove trees if they are dangerous or to make way for planting new trees. Most trees can be restored and we would not recommend the removal of old trees simply to make way for new ones.
The main aims of restorative pruning are to prolong the tree's life, restore the intended structure and form of the tree and to improve the quality and quantity of fruit. Restorative pruning should be carried out in winter when a tree is leafless and dormant. At this time of year it is much easier to see the shape and condition of the tree. Stone fruits such as plums are an exception and should be pruned in July to August because they are very susceptible to silver leaf, the spores of which are spread in winter. Restoration is a gradual process and should be phased over several years to avoid shocking the tree and to enable the effect of pruning to be monitored.
d) Subsequent years
In the following winters remove any over-vigorous growth that spoils the shape of the tree and continue to thin out the remaining overcrowded branches. Also remove any more rubbing branches and suckers.
