Overview
Selecting And Planting New Trees
As is so often the case, proper preparation avoids trouble in the future. Here are some tips for buying and planting standards - the tall, vigorous trees found in traditional orchards.
1) Varieties
Choose a fruit variety which grows best in the locality. Look at our information sheet on Hertfordshire Fruit varieties to guide your choice.
2) Where to plant
Learn from history. Visit your Local Studies Library and have a look at some old tithe maps. These will show where orchards used to grow and could indicate areas of good drainage, shelter or frost resistance.
As a rule of thumb:
* make sure the fruit tree is planted in well drained land
* choose areas which provide shelter from the prevailing weather direction
* if your intended area is prone to frost, plant late flowering varieties
* if you are planting on a slope, plant early cropping varieties (hillside apple harvests can get very messy in November)
* don't plant in ground prone to water-logging
Did You Know
The Hawthorn is the host plant for the Fireblight bacteria? Do not plant your fruit trees near a hawthorn hedge.
3) Buying Tips
Buy from a reputable nursery (see our information sheet on 'Useful Information'). Order well in advance if you want unusual varieties. When buying a young standard tree, that is one which will grow tall with one main, thick trunk, be sure to save yourself later work by buying a feathered maiden. These will have a well balanced crown, with perhaps four or five young branches coming off the leading vertical shoot.
Make sure you buy the right rootstock for your situation. Rootstocks come in a variety of degrees of vigour, ordered within a numerical system that seems to make no real sense. For example, M25 is a traditional and very vigorous rootstock good for growing standard trees. M2 is also good for standards or half standards, while M9 and M27 rootstocks will produce a dwarf tree which will require staking throughout its life. Seek advice from your nursery.
4) When to Plant
Plant in winter if you can, when the tree is dormant. Anytime between December and February should do, but planting before Christmas usually means the soil still has some warmth which helps the tree establish.
5) Planting tips for full-size standard trees
Drive a 3 metre (8-9 foot) stake into the ground leaving around 2 metres (6 feet) above the ground. The stake should be about 10 cms (3-4 inches) thick. Dig the planting hole on the side of the stake opposite to the prevailing wind direction. This will blow the tree away from the stake, allowing the latter to do its job well.
If your orchard is not grazed by stock, you could try using a smaller stake. A stake protruding only 1 metre (two or three feet) above the ground will be enough.
Dig the hole 30cm (12-15) inches deep. The stake should be in line with the centre of the hole. Try to plant the tree about 10 cms (4 inches) from the stake. Rotate the tree in the hole to obtain the best fit. It is vital to plant the tree at the same soil level as it was in the nursery (you can tell this level by the soil mark left around the base of the trunk). All roots should be adequately covered with soil mixed with well-rotted manure or organic fertilizer. Trim any damaged roots with sharp secateurs and do not leave any roots which are up-turned.
Do not put coarse turf into the hole. Shake the tree gently while filling the hole and carefully firm the earth with your heel (paying special attention to the area between the stake and the tree) to avoid air pockets forming around the roots. Do NOT cover the rootstock union (where scion and rootstock meet).
6) When preparing holes
Don't dig holes too far in advance of planting. Don't leave holes open overnight
Don't plant in wet holes
7) Fitting a tie
Buy suitable length tree ties from a garden centre and fasten the tie so that it holds the tree firmly upright. The tie will have to be slackened as the tree grows to prevent it cutting into the trunk.
8) Rabbit guard
Fit a good rabbit proof guard around each trunk.
9) Mulching
Mulch an area of 1 metre around the base of the tree with suitable material such as chippings or well-rotted manure. This will keep competing weeds at bay and help retain soil moisture and warmth.
10) Finally....
Pour a bucket of water over the planted area. This will help drive out any air pockets. Keep well watered, especially during the first summer.
As is so often the case, proper preparation avoids trouble in the future. Here are some tips for buying and planting standards - the tall, vigorous trees found in traditional orchards.
1) Varieties
Choose a fruit variety which grows best in the locality. Look at our information sheet on Hertfordshire Fruit varieties to guide your choice.
2) Where to plant
Learn from history. Visit your Local Studies Library and have a look at some old tithe maps. These will show where orchards used to grow and could indicate areas of good drainage, shelter or frost resistance.
As a rule of thumb:
* make sure the fruit tree is planted in well drained land
* choose areas which provide shelter from the prevailing weather direction
* if your intended area is prone to frost, plant late flowering varieties
* if you are planting on a slope, plant early cropping varieties (hillside apple harvests can get very messy in November)
* don't plant in ground prone to water-logging
Did You Know
The Hawthorn is the host plant for the Fireblight bacteria? Do not plant your fruit trees near a hawthorn hedge.
3) Buying Tips
Buy from a reputable nursery (see our information sheet on 'Useful Information'). Order well in advance if you want unusual varieties. When buying a young standard tree, that is one which will grow tall with one main, thick trunk, be sure to save yourself later work by buying a feathered maiden. These will have a well balanced crown, with perhaps four or five young branches coming off the leading vertical shoot.
Make sure you buy the right rootstock for your situation. Rootstocks come in a variety of degrees of vigour, ordered within a numerical system that seems to make no real sense. For example, M25 is a traditional and very vigorous rootstock good for growing standard trees. M2 is also good for standards or half standards, while M9 and M27 rootstocks will produce a dwarf tree which will require staking throughout its life. Seek advice from your nursery.
4) When to Plant
Plant in winter if you can, when the tree is dormant. Anytime between December and February should do, but planting before Christmas usually means the soil still has some warmth which helps the tree establish.
5) Planting tips for full-size standard trees
Drive a 3 metre (8-9 foot) stake into the ground leaving around 2 metres (6 feet) above the ground. The stake should be about 10 cms (3-4 inches) thick. Dig the planting hole on the side of the stake opposite to the prevailing wind direction. This will blow the tree away from the stake, allowing the latter to do its job well.
If your orchard is not grazed by stock, you could try using a smaller stake. A stake protruding only 1 metre (two or three feet) above the ground will be enough.
Dig the hole 30cm (12-15) inches deep. The stake should be in line with the centre of the hole. Try to plant the tree about 10 cms (4 inches) from the stake. Rotate the tree in the hole to obtain the best fit. It is vital to plant the tree at the same soil level as it was in the nursery (you can tell this level by the soil mark left around the base of the trunk). All roots should be adequately covered with soil mixed with well-rotted manure or organic fertilizer. Trim any damaged roots with sharp secateurs and do not leave any roots which are up-turned.
Do not put coarse turf into the hole. Shake the tree gently while filling the hole and carefully firm the earth with your heel (paying special attention to the area between the stake and the tree) to avoid air pockets forming around the roots. Do NOT cover the rootstock union (where scion and rootstock meet).
6) When preparing holes
Don't dig holes too far in advance of planting. Don't leave holes open overnight
Don't plant in wet holes
7) Fitting a tie
Buy suitable length tree ties from a garden centre and fasten the tie so that it holds the tree firmly upright. The tie will have to be slackened as the tree grows to prevent it cutting into the trunk.
8) Rabbit guard
Fit a good rabbit proof guard around each trunk.
9) Mulching
Mulch an area of 1 metre around the base of the tree with suitable material such as chippings or well-rotted manure. This will keep competing weeds at bay and help retain soil moisture and warmth.
10) Finally....
Pour a bucket of water over the planted area. This will help drive out any air pockets. Keep well watered, especially during the first summer.
